The nose is exuberant, with pure violets and berries. Insane. This is so straight and racy, with super fine tannins and a long, long finish. There is a minimalist clarity to the wine. Superb.

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 La Conseillante opens with notes of warm black plums, baked blackberries and blueberry preserves plus hints of dried rosemary, fragrant earth and cedar. Full-bodied, the palate is firm and chewy with a lively line cutting through the densely packed, savory layers, finishing a little warm and lifted.

The tannins are huge, very dense, packing through the ripe fruit. At first it tastes like a mouthful of wood and fruit tannins, then the potential of the fruit becomes apparent. That gives a wine with a great, final acidity and finish.

Features substantial but very velvety structure running from start to finish, delivering a muscular feel for now. The hard edges are fully absorbed by the core of plum sauce, steeped blackberry and warm boysenberry reduction notes. The finish offers gorgeous tobacco and ganache accents lurking in the wings, along with flickers of anise and incense that should guide this version to increased elegance with age. Best from 2016 through 2034.