The nose is a retired sailor's old leather trunk, smelling of the tobacco, vanilla, dried fruit and dark chocolate once contained within, with a hint of saline. Like the trunk's owner, the palate is mature but not boring, with continuing notes of vanilla and fruit, but umami undertones, ominous tannins and searing acid provide contrast.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is spicy with a blend of crushed rocks and dried cherries offset by a hint of white pepper. This is soft and round on the palate, with brisk acidity that helps to enliven its tart wild berry fruits, as an air of balsam herbs forms toward the close. The 2017 finishes with impressive length and a balanced tannic structure, leaving hints of salted licorice, citrus and clove to linger.