The 2022 Saint Joseph Le Clos is much more inward and structured, with a terrific sense of reduction in its red and black fruits, smoked meats, game, black pepper, and gunpowder-like aromatics. These carry to a medium to full-bodied Saint Joseph that's flawlessly balanced, has a layered, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish.

I underestimated the 2022 Saint-Joseph Le Clos when tasting it from barrel last year. Now in bottle, we're talking about a deeply alluring, complex red Saint-Joseph with lots of savory character. Pronounced black cherry compote, cassis pastille, licorice, cedar and a touch of violet are all intensified. Full-bodied, round and generous, the 2022 walks off the stage with utter refinement on the long, complex finale.

The textural beauty stands out, with rich, meaty chewiness to the core of black currant, singed orange peel, lavender, mocha, leather and creamy bacon fat. In beautiful harmony now, this offers years of life ahead, with salty, briny vibrancy from start to finish. Shows cigar box, baking spices and grilled mesquite, plus a pleasing blast of menthol freshness at the end, held together with fine yet present tannins. Stunning.