All barrel-fermented Marsanne from Tournon's lieu-dit Saint-Joseph, Chapoutier's 2021 Saint-Joseph Les Granits Blanc is another candidate for the appellation's top white wine. Scents of struck match, melon, peach and lime mark the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, plump and succulent. Is there even a touch of botrytis? Long and gently textured, with a silky finish, it's a beauty to drink over the next several years, perhaps longer.