A refined, elegant version, with cool greenness behind its open-knit notes of green plum, jicama and gooseberry, all filigreed with celery seed, fennel and mountain herbs. Offers cooling mineral precision on the springy, fresh finish, which shows luminance, complexity and length.

Well-integrated aromas of golden apple and Barlett pear open on the nose, followed by a whisper of dried orange peel. The palate has depth. An undercurrent of prickly acidity rides underneath a layer of just-ripened orchard fruit, completing with citrus on the finish. Pair with shellfish, and tuna and salmon tartare.