The 2004 Doisy-Vedrines appears to be maturing nicely, the nose far more exuberant and engaging than the Doisy-Daene, attired with seductive scents of butterscotch, creme caramel and just a touch of chlorophyll. The palate is viscous on the entry with nicely judged acidity. This feels fat in the mouth, with good weight and depth on the satisfying finish. This is a highly recommended Sauternes for the vintage. Drink now-2025.

On the dry side, this wine is marked by concentrated botrytis spiced with dark, smooth honey. There is a tense edge of lemon zest and structure here.

Tasted at the chateau, the 2004 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines was one of the surprises of the vertical tasting. It has a delightful fresh bouquet with orange peel, honey, tinned apricot and creme brulee aromas that are well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, well-judged acidity and a vibrant, tensile finish that feels long and vivacious. Drinking beautifully now, the 2004 will last another 20 years with ease. This is a little gem from Olivier Casteja.