Lashings of blackberry and liquorice, dark chocolate with a core of freshness. This was the point at which Fonplegade started to hit it out of the park. You would think it was a 2015 or a 2016 given its generosity and finesse. Brilliantly judged oak too, which is not always the case in St-Emilion. Organic and biodynamic.

Dark-berry and oyster-shell aromas follow through to a medium body, integrated tannins and a tangy finish. An almost burnt lemon undertone. Linear and polished. Very solid.

The 2014 Fonplegade has an almost opaque bouquet that demanded continuous swirling of the glass before it reluctantly offered blackberry, raspberry and cedar wood aromas, just a touch of fireside hearth in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, the acidity finely tuned with a voluminous and vigorous finish of redcurrant jam, raspberry and black pepper. There is a lot going on in this Fonplegade and the persistence suggests that it will age over a decade or more.

This has a succulent core of steeped plum and blackberry notes inlaid with ganache and licorice snap accents, all of which knit well through the finish, where a light chalk hint echoes, adding effective contrast. Offers a lingering mouthwatering feeling. This could be sneakily long in the cellar.