This is just starting to open up on the nose with tobacco, plums and currants throughout. Full-bodied, with lots of tobacco and chocolate that turns to notes of coffee and fruit on the finish. The palate is just starting to come around. Why should you wait on this? The winemaker says that it will be better after 2012. Rich and slightly austere still at the finish.

The 2000 Rauzan-Segla is deep in color. The bouquet is similar to the bottle poured a couple of years ago, featuring blueberry and Provencal herbs, the secondary and primary scents commingling to wonderful effect. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and tarry black fruit, and quite structured and fresh, leading to a grippy, saline finish. A redoubtable, almost swarthy Margaux that should drink well for another 20 years or more. Superb.

Deep brick in color, the 2000 Rauzan-Ségla gives a mature nose of sandalwood, sweaty leather, cinnamon stick and star anise with wafts of raisin cake, dried cherries and preserved plums. Medium-bodied with a chewy texture and a good amount of remaining dried berries and savory layers, it finishes just a little rustic.

At first taste, this wine seems more new world than Bordeaux. But then the subtle, perfumed aromas and structured fruit show through, along with the clean acidity and black tannic fruits. Give this wine at least 12 years before opening.

This is a bit grainy in feel, with ample cedar- and juniper-lined tannins carrying a mix of red and black currant, bay leaf and black tea flavors along before a tangy sanguine note captures the finish. Has character and charm, if a bit outpaced by the pack in general.