The Chateau Climens was tasted from several lots that Berenice Lurton and her team are preparing to blend together during its barrel maturation. Having conducted this practice over many years, I would point out that whereas in some years one has to conjecture to the full, in 2014 the lots were both smaller in number, less heterogeneous and paradoxically, more "complete". This made it easier to envisage the final wine. Here, you had to focus on the second trie where 80% of the crop was picked with widespread onset of botrytis. There are fleeting senses of dried honey, juniper berries and marigold, dried apricot on a couple of barrels. There is clearly good acidity here, most of the lots spicier than 2013. As usual, this Climens is bestowed a sense of volume and persistence in the mouth and you have the sense that this will be a more approachable Barsac compared to other vintages. Overall, Berenice Lurton has a winning Climens on her hands, one that will in the top two or three sweet wines of the vintage.

This delivers wave after wave of piecrust, dried pineapple, warm marmalade, singed almond, glazed peach and apricot flavors, with a hint of brioche. Despite the heft, this has a breezy feel within, thanks to riveting acidity buried deep on the finish.

In the same ballpark as the 2011, the 2014 Chateau Climens reveals a similar gold hue as well as rich, powerful notes of honeyed almonds, caramelized peach, white raisins, toasted bread, and honeycomb. It's more full-bodied and has a wonderful mid-palate to go with serious opulence and possibly more moderate acidity. Slightly softer and more seamless than the 2011 (and the 2015), it still has beautiful freshness and purity and another 25-30 years of longevity.

A concentrated and finely nuanced wine that opens up a lot in the glass after starting out quite shy. The best thing about it is the great balance and the subtlety of flavor. It ends in a long, silky finish of serious complexity.

The 2014 Climens has a slightly more resinous bouquet than its peers, with well-defined scents of dried honey, peach skin and wet wool. The palate is well balanced with a pure and harmonious entry, wonderful acidity and superb precision on the finish that makes you want to take another sip. Superb.

Pale lemon colored, the 2014 Climens reveals wonderful botrytis-inspired scents defining the nose with a core of ripe peaches, honeydew melon and lemon marmalade plus wafts of candle wax and orange blossom. The palate possesses an almost electric intensity with tons of layers and a lively backbone framing the generous fruit, finishing very long.

This is beautifully concentrated and full of great richness yet seems closed at the moment. Its apricot jelly and dried fruit flavors, acidity and botrytis are in perfect balance, developing intensity as it opens. A full, generous wine with a great future.